Here is where you start putting the foam in the spar jigs.  (Borrowed from your friendly expert Cozy builder!)

It took me about an hour to figure out where these reliefs were.  This surface becomes tangent with the spar caps, so you want to get the depth of cut accurate.

Here we see it with the one layer BID in place, and the internal bulkheads in place.

The front face (CS4) is glassed and ready to go on.  I put the glass on CS4 in oe piece.

Off the jigs and ready for outside work.

Using the Fein Sander with cutting blade for cutting the spar cap troughs.  This is a great tool for building airplanes.  The cutter does a good job of trimming fiberglass, cutting foam, you name it.  And the sander part works very well also.  This tool never gets put away.

Here you see the spar troughs sanded and ready for glass...

...as soon as we get a few more hardpoints located.  The grout chisler works great for popping foam loose from the underlying glass.

The top spar cap is finished.  This was about a 6 hour layup.  Note that the roll of spar tape is mounted at the far end of the table.  I bought two full rolls of spar tape (that way they come nice and neat, no damage, no worry about being short.

The glass takes some time, some stippling, and some warm resin to wet out.  No big deal, but there is a lot of glass in the caps.  I ended up putting an extra layer +/- 30 inches (in the center) and then one overall to tie together all of the cut ends.